Articles › Vegetables and nutrition
Leafy greens in Thai heat: kale, pak choi, choy sum, lettuce, shade and bolting
Chinese kale, pak choi, choy sum and lettuce take heat differently: temperature ranges, days to harvest, when 30% shade cloth helps, and when to sow so they don't bolt.
- Chinese kale, pak choi and choy sum grow almost year-round in the Thai lowlands, but lettuce likes 15-20°C and bolts early above 30°C.
- These brassicas bolt and rot when left in the bed too long; picking on time is the key.
- Shade cloth of about 30% helps lettuce in the heat; ever denser shade does not add more.
- Lettuce suits the cool season, mid-October to mid-February; in the rainy season, protect beds from pounding rain and standing water.
The leafy greens in this lesson do not handle heat equally. Chinese kale (kana), pak choi and choy sum (pak kwang tung) grow almost year-round in the Thai lowlands if you pick them on time and keep the rain off. Lettuce prefers about 15-20°C and bolts early above 30°C. Getting them through the heat comes down to choosing the right crop, the right timing, and the right amount of shade - not too much.
How heat-tolerant are these four?
| Crop | Preferred temperature | Days to harvest | In the heat |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chinese kale | Germinates best at 25-30 °C, grows best at 18-28 °C | Young plants from about 3 weeks; in Thailand about 30-55 days | More heat tolerant than most of its cabbage relatives; grown year-round in the tropics |
| Pak choi | 20-25 °C, germinates in 3-5 days | Usually 30-45 days | Heat- and wet-tolerant, year-round in the lowlands, but not flood-tolerant |
| Choy sum | 15-25 °C gives strong, sweet stalks | 30-50 days | Dislikes waterlogged soil; too much rain causes rot |
| Lettuce | 15-20 °C | Loose-leaf types in Thailand about 40-45 days | Bolts early above 30 °C; grow heat-tolerant cultivars |
The figures come from the Southeast Asian vegetable handbook (PROSEA), the University of Florida’s choy sum guide, lettuce research, and an FAO report on vegetables in Thailand; see the list at the end.
What bolting is, and why it happens
Bolting is when a plant stops making leaves and sends up a stalk to flower. Leaves become fewer, tougher, and in many crops more bitter. What triggers it depends on the crop.
- Lettuce: heat is the main trigger. In one experiment, lettuce grown at 33°C by day and 25°C by night was compared with 20/13°C. The hot group bolted clearly by about day 32; the cool group did not bolt at all.
- Pak choi and Chinese kale: in the tropical handbooks, cold is what speeds up flowering, which hardly happens in the Thai lowlands. The real problem is leaving them in the bed too long: tropical cultivars start to bolt and lose their market value, and pak choi left too long also turns to soft rot easily.
- Choy sum is different, because you already eat its flower buds. Plants start forming flowers at about 7-8 leaves or roughly 20 cm tall. Harvest when the buds are full but before they open.
In the Thai lowlands, these brassicas rarely bolt from heat - they bolt from being left too long. Lettuce bolts from heat. The fixes are different.
Shade cloth: what percentage?
The percentage is the share of light the cloth blocks. A 30% cloth lets about 70% through.
- A trial in Hawaii grew lettuce in full sun and under 30%, 47%, 63% and 73% shade. In one season, 30% shade gave significantly higher yields than full sun; in the other, yields dropped only slightly as shade rose to 47%. Of the five crops tested, lettuce was the only one that did well under light shade.
- Reading the result: light shade of about 30% is the safe spot. By 47% yields were already starting to slip, so there is no case for denser shade over lettuce.
For Chinese kale and pak choi, the handbook says kale does well in sunny conditions, and pak choi that is crowded or shaded stretches and goes pale. They do not need heavy shade; if you cover them at all, cover them to keep the rain from battering them.
Timing with the Thai seasons
Thailand’s year runs as a hot season from about mid-February to mid-May, a rainy season from mid-May to mid-October, and a cool season from mid-October to mid-February.
| Season | Chinese kale, pak choi | Choy sum | Lettuce |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cool | Best | Best | Best |
| Hot | Fine, water more | Fine | Hard; heat-tolerant cultivars and about 30% shade |
| Rainy | Fine with rain cover and drainage | Watch for rot | Rain-tolerant cultivars; shelter from pounding rain |
For the rainy season, the handbook recommends mulch or a rain shelter so seed is not washed out, and temporary netting or a cover to stop plants from lodging and leaves from being battered. For choy sum, the Florida guide says plants cannot take more than about 300 mm of rain a month or very wet soil without bacterial soft rot. A raised trough under the eaves helps a lot.
Worked example: planning a 1 x 2 m bed for the cool season
Say you have a bed 1 m wide and 2 m long and want Chinese kale and lettuce.
- Kale on half the bed (1 x 1 m). Final spacing 30 x 30 cm, with a 15 cm margin on every side, leaves a 70 x 70 cm planting area. Rows at 0, 30 and 60 cm give 3 rows of 3 plants: 9 plants.
- Lettuce on the other half. Assume 20 x 20 cm spacing. In 70 x 70 cm, rows at 0, 20, 40 and 60 cm give 4 x 4 = 16 plants.
- Harvest dates. Sow kale on 1 November; at 30-55 days that is about 1-26 December. Loose-leaf lettuce at 40-45 days, sown the same day, is ready about 11-16 December.
- Keep it coming. For a steady lettuce supply, sow a new batch every 2 weeks, but stop around early January: anything sown later grows into mid-February, when the heat returns.
If the bed is in the open and you see daytime temperatures above 30°C several days in a row, put 30% cloth over the lettuce only. Leave the kale in full sun.
The main brassica pest
The most important pest of Chinese kale, pak choi and choy sum is the diamondback moth caterpillar, which is resistant to many insecticides. The handbook notes that in Thailand whole kale fields are covered with netting against it. That works without chemicals in a small home bed too: cover it with fine insect mesh from sowing and open it only to tend the plants. For pest control without pesticides in general, see Start a pesticide-free garden in a small space.
The other disease worth knowing is clubroot. The handbook says pak choi is very susceptible. If you pull a plant and find swollen, misshapen roots, throw out the plant and the soil from that pot, and stop growing cabbage-family crops in that soil.
Common mistakes
- Growing ordinary lettuce in full sun in the hot season. It bolts and turns bitter before you get to eat it.
- Dense 70% shade all day. Plants stretch, leaves thin out, growth slows.
- Leaving pak choi past its harvest date. It bolts and rots.
- Waiting for choy sum to flower yellow. The stems toughen and lose their sweetness.
- Planting too close. No airflow, stretched plants, and rot spreads quickly.
The next lesson is tomatoes in the Thai climate, a crop where both heat and rain hit the harvest hard.
Sources
- Brassica oleracea (Chinese kale group) — PROSEA
- Brassica rapa (Pak Choi group) — PROSEA
- Production Guide for Choy Sum — UF/IFAS Extension
- Lettuce bolting induced by high temperature — PMC
- Productivity under shade in Hawaii of five crops grown as vegetables in the tropics — FAO AGRIS
- The vegetable sector in Thailand: Chinese kale and lettuce — FAO
FAQ
Can I still eat lettuce that has bolted?
Yes, but the leaves usually turn more bitter and tougher. Pick the good lower leaves first, then pull the plant and resow rather than keeping it going.
Should the shade cloth stay up all day?
If it is permanent, choose about 30%, which trials found still lets lettuce get enough light. With anything denser, put it up only for the hottest part of the afternoon, because leafy greens with too little light stretch and grow thin leaves.
When do I harvest choy sum?
When the flower buds are fully developed but not yet open, about 30-50 days after sowing. Cut stems, leaves and buds together. Once the yellow flowers open, the stems toughen.
General information, not medical advice. If you are pregnant, take regular medication, or have a liver or kidney condition, ask a doctor or pharmacist before taking herbs beyond normal food amounts.